Weed control
QUESTION:
I live in Aberdeen. With so many nights below freezing, is it to late to spray for lawn weeds, or do I need to wait until spring?

ANSWER:
I think there is still some time to control some of those perennial lawn weeds like dandelions. There are two important factors to consider; 1) the weed leaves still need to be green when you apply the herbicide and 2) air temperature should be close to 50F or greater at the time of herbicide application to facilitate movement in the plant. It sounds like temperatures may warm up a bit this weekend and early next week, so that may be one of our last opportunities to control weeds this fall.

For more information: michael.moechnig@sdstate.edu

Gourd
QUESTION:
A friend found a small gourd, oval football shape, watermelon pattern, green with yellow, about baseball sized but oblong along a creek in eastern Lyman County. He claims he's found similar gourds in other remote areas. Is there a wild gourd growing in SD? Can you provide information and pictures? Wasn't sure who to send it to.

ANSWER:
It is difficult to determine what the plant may be. We would need a picture or sample (either sent directly to SDSU or through your county extension office) to verify the identification. Your description sounds like buffalo gourd, but that plant is more common in southern states up to Nebraska. I attached a picture I found on the internet. Wild cucumber is a more common weed in the same plant family (second attached picture). However, wild cucumber produces a gourd about the size of a chicken egg with distinct thorns. Wild cucumber is often found in wet soils, such as along a creek, but may be found in well drained areas also.
   

For more information: michael.moechnig@sdstate.edu

Garden
QUESTION:
I planted my garden a little late this year -- toward the end of May. I used plants instead of seeds since planting was late. Cool weather (I assumed) led to loss of cucumber plants so I restarted some seeds indoors and planted them Memorial Weekend. My beans, peas, lettuce, summer squash and zucchini are doing great. My tomato plants are 5 ft monsters with lots of immature fruit! But my cucumbers have still not blossomed. I have fruit on all my other plants, albeit a little behind usual schedule. I use Miracle Gro regularly and have used Schultz Tomato Food as well on all veggies. But it is now almost 60 days since I planted my cucumber plants outside and should be harvesting cukes by now. Any suggestions? This is the first time I have planted in this garden spot. It was fallow last year.

ANSWER:
Cucumbers are probably best direct-seeded in the garden, as transplanting can sometimes lead to them getting set back. If your summer squash and zucchini are doing fine, the soil is probably fine, and the cucumbers will eventually begin to bear also.

For more information: rhoda.burrows@sdstate.edu

Yard
QUESTION:
My mother in law has a friend in Viborg who thinks her yard has been killed by an overgrowth of moss. I told her I would not suspect moss but something else bug, bacteria, virus mold etc. Do you know of anything in the area this year that would kill a yard. Regards Doug Mofle

ANSWER:
Moss generally grows in shady wet areas, conditions that are not conducive for grass. It is more likely that the moss (if that is what it is) is taking over where the grass couldn't grow, rather than crowding out the grass. I've also seen moss grow in full sun in areas that were overwatered (daily watering rather than weekly). However, to determine what the issue is, bring a sample of the affected area, including some of the grass as well, into a county extension office, or send it to the Plant Diagnostic Lab on campus.

For more information: rhoda.burrows@sdstate.edu

Grass seed to use on clay soil
QUESTION:
What is the best grass seed to use on clay soil and not use too much water? Please no Kentucky Bluegrass?

ANSWER:
Buffalograss does quite well on clay and is low-water requiring. It does not tolerate shade.

For more information: rhoda.burrows@sdstate.edu

Net wrap for cattle
QUESTION:
I am considering buying a new baler that is net wrap capable. Many of the producers in my area grind net wrapped bales. Have there been any studies done on the side effects of net wrap consumption by cattle?

ANSWER:
This is a very common question. Unfortunately, we do not have a good answer. There has not been any research done to look at the potential side effects of feeding net wrap to cattle. With that said, it makes sense that the particles of net wrap would accumulate in the rumen over time. In the short term, this is not likely to be problematic. However, for a cow that will be repeatedly fed ground net wrap over a number of years, the accumulation could become large enough to reduce feed intake to the point where the cow has difficulty maintaining body condition. As such, our recommendation is to go ahead and use the ground net wrap for feedlot cattle or cull cows, but not for cows, heifers, or bulls intended for the breeding herd. It is possible you may hear stories from ranchers that have successfully fed ground net wrap to the main cow herd for a number of years without incident. We wouldn´t dispute these claims at all, but we simply do not have the research data to make a definitive claim that it is safe.

For more information: cody.wright@sdstate.edu

Certification of a pesticide applicator
QUESTION:
I am applying for a job that requires certification of a pesticide applicator. It needs to be good for rodents and predators, and birds. My question is where can i take a test and get information to study. I am located in Webster, SD. Who should i contact.

ANSWER:
You can take the commercial applicator certification exams at the local County Extension Office. It is located in the southwest corner of the courthouse basement in Webster. You will need to start with the General category exam. Then based on what it sounds as though you will be doing you will likely need to take the category 12 - Rodent& Bird exam. I am not certain what "predators" you will be working with, but unless you are a GFP - Animal Damage control employee, there training/testing for M-44 devices for coyotes is only given in late November or early December in Rapid City by SD Dept of Ag personnel. If you find that you need that category, we will need to call SD Dept of Ag and get you registered.

For more information: james.wilson@sdstate.edu

Pear Tree
QUESTION:
I have a Seckal Pear Tree that is over 5 years old and we live in Rosholt, SD. The pear tree is not producing leaves. There are only a few leaves on some of the branches and the bark on the trunk is very rough (like scabs or burn marks). What is attacking the tree and is there anything we can do besides pulling it? Will this affect my other fruit trees we had a 4 yr old honeycrisp die 2 yrs ago?

ANSWER:
This appears to be fireblight, a common bacterial disease of pome fruits including pear. Typical symptoms are blackening and curling leaves on the shoot tips (and these leaves die) and wrinkled bark. If the problem is fireblight it can spread to the apple tree so I would recommend removing the pear. However, the same symptoms you described could also be associated with winter-kill. Pears are not always hardy to our state and you might just have a pear that decided it did not like the South Dakota winters.

For more information: John.Ball@sdstate.edu

Treflan
QUESTION:
A buddy said he used treflan on sweet corn. Will this work or will it harm or prevent germanition. If it will work should it be applied pre or post emerg?

ANSWER:
Treflan is not labeled for sweet corn and should not be used on it.

For more information: rhoda.burrows@sdstate.edu

Manure
QUESTION:
Can you fertilize with dog poop in a vegetable garden? If this is not safe and it has already been done, what do we have to do to make it safe again? Thanks.

ANSWER:
It certainly is not a recommended practice! We recommend any manure be aged four to six months (counting only time that is above-freezing temperatures), which pretty much rules out using anything from this year's garden that is not thoroughly cooked, if the exposure is recent. Removing feces will not be sufficient to ameliorate the damage, as rainfall may have already washed pathogens into the soil.

For more information: rhoda.burrows@sdstate.edu

Strawberries in South Dakota
QUESTION:
If you plant strawberries in a row should the plant in the row be raised or mounded I'm talking a couple of rows 25ft long in my garden, I was going to plant the rows 2ft apart, any other info would be great thanks.

ANSWER:
If you have heavy soils (fairly high clay content), it´s an especially good idea to plant on a raised bed or mound, so that the crowns do not stay wet after watering or a rain. It doesn´t have to be very high - even an inch or two will be helpful. More information on growing strawberries in South Dakota can be found at http://agbiopubs.sdstate.edu/articles/ExEx6031.pdf.

For more information: rhoda.burrows@sdstate.edu

Curly Dock
QUESTION:
What would you suggest to spray on Curly Dock in a pature area used for habitat? When would you spray it? What would you do for follow up? /

ANSWER:
Curly dock can be somewhat difficult to control because it is a perennial with a relatively large taproot. Unlike several other perennial weeds, it is best to control curly dock in the spring or early summer while the plants are still in the rosette stage and have not begun to bolt. Just 2,4-D may be somewhat effective, but may require a second application is you see re-growth. Other herbicides such as dicamba, picloram, or triclopyr may be more effective. Specific herbicide options include:

1. 2,4-D ester or amine: 1.5 - 2qt/A

2. Dicamba: Apply 1 - 2 pt/A of dicamba products such as Banvel, Clarity, Sterling, or others. Premixes containing dicamba + 2,4-D (WeedMaster, Banvel+2,4-D, Brash, RangeStar, and others) may be effective at 1.5 pt/A while curly dock is at the rosette stage or at 3 pt/A after bolting but before flowering.

3. Triclopyr: Premixes such as Crossbow (2,4-D + triclopyr) may be effective at 2 - 4 qt/A (1 - 1.5% of spray mixture). Redeem (triclopyr + clopyralid) may be effective at 2 - 3 pt/A.

4. Metsulfuron: Escort (metsulfuron) may be effective at 0.5 - 1 oz wt./A. You may need to add a non-ionic surfactant with this herbicide.

5. Clopyralid: Stinger (clopyralid) at 0.25 - 0.5 pt/A. Stinger is quite expensive though.

6. Picloram: Tordon or Outpost at 1 -2 pt/A. Picloram is a restricted use pesticide so you will have to be a certified applicator to apply this. Also, picloram is readily absorbed by tree roots and will cause significant tree injury or death if sprayed over the tree root zone. Although picloram is registered for use in South Dakota, it may not be registered for use in other states.

For more information: Michael.Moechnig@sdstate.edu

Plant List for the northern hills
QUESTION:
We will be moving to our Black Hills cabin near Galena, SD in the northern Black Hills. Could you give me a list of perennial flowers that do well in this high elevation, and also those that the deer will not eat? Thank you!

ANSWER:
I tried my best to come up with a list of perennials to try in the Northern Hills but a lot will depend on the particular site, sun exposure, soil depth and pH, snow cover etc. I really don´t have much information on resistance to deer. There are some websites that list deer resistant plants but I have found that it really varies from one area to another and the particular tastes of the deer. I know they love Hosta, so you may want to exclude that from the list.
Plant List for the northern hills.xls .

For more information: david.graper@sdstate.edu

Fruit trees
QUESTION:
We live in North central SD (Gettysburg) and would like to plant a few fruit trees (4-6) (apple and pear). Could you reccomend some varities that would work in our location. We prefer the sweeter, fresh eating apples. Would HoneyCrisp work?

ANSWER:
Honeycrisp should work well for you. You may want to put It on a standard rootstock rather than dwarfing (trees tend to be naturally smaller growing under your conditions anyway!), and be sure to give it tender loving care especially the first few years - if you don´t, it tends to stop growing. Zestar is another good eating apple, with that sweet crisp taste, that will ripen a bit earlier, but may be a bit less hardy. (I´d avoid it if you live in an area with heavy apple scab infestations). Sweet 16 would be another good choice for you, although it has somewhat a distinctive taste (some have described it as being reminiscent of pink bubble gum) that some really like and others not so much. Haralson is dependably hardy, and a good keeper, but tends to bear every other year, and is also susceptible to scab. And if you like a wonderful small apple for fresh eating, Chestnut crabs are an excellent choice, with great flavor! Pears: Do not plant Bartletts, as they will not be hardy enough for you. Options are Summercrisp, Gourmet, Luscious, and Ure. See our publication "Fruit Varieties for South Dakota" for more information http://agbiopubs.sdstate.edu/pub_description.cfm?Item=ExEx6035

For more information: rhoda.burrows@sdstate.edu

Angus cows
QUESTION:
I have a herd of registered angus cows. Last spring I AI-ed some of them to a polled hereford bull to avoid horns. Quite a few people have told me that I can use horned hereford semen and not get any horns. Is this true? Is there any truth to the link between docility and horns? Any info you could offer would be great.

ANSWER:
Breeding your Angus cows to Horned Hereford semen would result in hornless animals. Your question about a link between docility and horns, I have not heard or read any information that links docility and horns.

For more information: julie.walker@sdstate.edu

Grapes and raspberries
QUESTION:
I live in north central SD and I am going to try to grow grapes and raspberries. I need information on how to plant, what varieties to plant, soil pH, can I plant next to my vege garden, etc. Can you point me in the right direction?

ANSWER:
Start with two publications for variety selections: "Grapes for South Dakota" http://agbiopubs.sdstate.edu/pub_description.cfm?Item=ExEx6037 and "Fruit varieties for South Dakota" http://agbiopubs.sdstate.edu/pub_description.cfm?Item=ExEx6037 Grapes and raspberries both will grow in about the same soil pH as your garden, so if your garden is doing all right, likely the grapes and raspberries will do all right in that soil pH also. Raspberries grow well in rich soils with high levels of organic matter, while grapes do better in spots with less organic matter and lower soil nutrient levels. We also have a publication on growing raspberries: http://agbiopubs.sdstate.edu/pub_description.cfm?Item=ExEx6022 For homeowners, a good backyard grape publication can be found at http://www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/horticulture/DG1103.html

For more information: rhoda.burrows@sdstate.edu

Reduction in acorns
QUESTION:
We live on the north east edge of Sioux Falls near Cactus Heights. Our back yard borders a gravel pit across from the Sioux River along Rice Street. A large number of volunteer oak trees grow wild in the area that goes down the hill to the gravel pit and around behind Oak View library. Every year we have lived here since 1996, the trees have acorns of varying amounts, but none this year. Why no acorns this year?

ANSWER:
Bur oak (Quercus macrocarpa) tends to have a good seed crop about every two to three years with the intervening years producing few to sometimes none. This should be one of the “low” years as there was an excellent crop last year. The squirrels quickly raided the few that were produced this fall. This reduction in acorns has resulted in heavier than normal branch feeding by squirrels. They have been seen stripping the bark from basswoods, elms, hackberries and maples this winter.

For more information: rhoda.burrows@sdstate.edu

Honey bee hives
QUESTION:
We were wanting to get honey bee hives going. Is there anyone in extension service that could help?

ANSWER:
Not knowing any other information, I can provide some information to help you get started. A few other people around Brookings are interested in starting a few hives this coming year, and we’re planning to get together to form something of a club or association. If you’re interested, be sure to let me know. As far as starting some hives, first considerations need to account for the actual steps necessary to start hives and legal considerations. South Dakota (assuming you live in South Dakota) beekeeping is regulated. One of the first steps will need to be filling out the paperwork to apply for location(s), entry permits, etcetera.

For more information: jon.kieckhefer@sdstate.edu

Deer resistant plants
QUESTION:
Hi, We are wanting to put a flower garden in our front yard and we have lots of deer around. Can you recommend a flower/plant they won't eat or a method to help keep them away? Thank you Glenn

ANSWER:
Plants vary in their attractiveness to deer and many may be ignored until the deer become particularly hungry. Also sometimes a particular deer seems to develop a taste for a plant that supposedly not attractive to the rest of its comrades. So all “deer-resistant” plant lists should be taken with those caveats in mind. A list can be found at http://www.spokane-county.wsu.edu/Spokane/eastside/Fact%20Sheets/C063%20Deer%20Resistant%20Plants.pdf Or go to http://monroe.extension.psu.edu/Horticulture/deer/index.html for an interactive website with plants classified by location, for example “Sunny Entry” or “Dry Border”. Repellents are sometimes effective, but must be reapplied frequently, especially after rains, and tend to be more effective if switched occasionally to a new type.

For more information: rhoda.burrows@sdstate.edu

Rose Bushes
QUESTION:
Need some information on growths on rose bushes. My wife found two types of growths on the stems on two different roses. We have some photos we took of the growths and would like someone to identify the growths to see if they are harmful to the roses or if they normally occur. Not sure who I should contact about this? Thanks. Brent

ANSWER:
Send some pictures. I suspect they are most likely rose galls caused by insects, but without further description that’s only an educated guess.

For more information: rhoda.burrows@sdstate.edu

Tomato
QUESTION:
my daughter gave me a tomatoe with white spots just uder the skin. The spots look like cysts the size of a sesame seed but with an irregular margin. There are no signs of damage to the skin and no other blemishes. what is it and is it safe to eat. Thanks, Karl

ANSWER:
It sounds like stink bug damage (they pierce the skin, so you may not see the puncture holes.) It is safe to eat, although if the spots are hard you may want to cut them out.

For more information: rhoda.burrows@sdstate.edu

Asian beetles
QUESTION:
Asian beetles are starting to show up on my house. I live in the country so they can be really bad. What can I spray on the outside to kill them before they get into my house? Do the products have any residual?

ANSWER:
Insecticides containing deltamethrin (Buggslayer, Suspend SC) or bifenthrin (Ortho Home Defense Max) have been shown to be effective against Asian lady beetles. There should be about 2-3 weeks of residual control from these insecticides.

For more information: michael.catangui@sdstate.edu

Jerusalem artichokes
QUESTION:
I'm working on a project involving Jerusalem artichokes as a feedstock for ethanol, although I know they are considered a pest in the area. Would it be feasible to actually use Jerusalem artichokes as a feedstock, or would this be too risky to other crops such as corn or soybeans?

ANSWER:
Yes, you are correct in your concern that Jerusalem can become a persistent weed that can be difficult to remove after it is planted and becomes established. You will likely have much difficulty in selling this idea since people have tried to sell Jerusalem artichoke in the past and several farmers learned a hard lesson that this plant is difficult to remove. Unfortunately, some of the most productive plant species are also invasive or “weedy”.

For more information: michael.moechnig@sdstate.edu

Cash Rent
QUESTION:
What is the average cash rent for dry land in Watertown South Dakota?

ANSWER:
The average cash rent for dry land cropland around Watertown, SD is $95.80 with a top range of $137.70 for high productive land and a low of $71.40 for low productive land. These figures are from the publication entitled South Dakota Agricultural Market Land Trends 1991 – 2008 p21. This publication is online at: http://agbiopubs.sdstate.edu/articles/C273.pdf

For more information: Martin.Beutler@sdstate.edu

insurance plan
QUESTION:
What is the best insurance plan to gurantee an income from a spring crop and can you explain the three CRC,RA &IP.

ANSWER:
Normally the crop insurance would have been purchased by March 15. If this is new land (to you) and you do not have existing policy then you will have to visit with an insurance agent about adding coverage at this time. As for the best insurance, on this year’s spring crops RA (Revenue Assurance) is probably the “best” insurance if it includes the Harvest Price Option. IP, Income Protection, does not have an indemnity that increases with harvest prices. That makes it unattractive if you are doing any forward pricing. CRC, Crop Revenue Coverage, has limits to how high the coverage will go before harvest. Such limits were exceed (at least temporarily) on winter wheat planted and insured last fall. Only RA has unlimited upside coverage. If you are doing no forward pricing, you could make the case that the product with the lowest cost your desired level of coverage would have been the best. However, RA would still provide the most coverage this year if prices increase before harvest.

For more information: diersen.matthew@ces.sdstate.edu

pears and apricots
QUESTION:
On our farm 15 miles south of Beresford we planted a row of Harbin Pear and Hardy Apricot about 10 years ago. They have grown well but have no fruit. Do we need a pollinator or what may be the problem? If so, what should we plant and how many. The rows are about 600 feet long. Please advise. Thank's

ANSWER:
The Harbin pears and apricots that have been used in shelterbelts have typically been planted for their plant structure and usefulness in working as a part of a windbreak and not necessarily for fruit production. In fact, the fruit of Harbin pear is barely edible with a very astringent flavor. The apricots would likely have reasonably good fruit but the problem is that they usually flower too early in the spring so that the flower buds, actual flowers or very young developing fruit usually get damaged by frost. Consequently, they may not flower in many years and only rarely produce fruit. These apricots should also likely be self-fruitful and would not need another cultivar to get fruit, but it would not hurt. If you really want apricots or pears, I would suggest you purchase some hardy apricots and pears that are rated for Zone 4 and for fruit production.

For more information: david.graper@sdstate.edu

planting dates
QUESTION:
I was looking up the planting dates of vegetables in Virginia for my mother. I found a website by Va. Tech with a chart that showed the planting dates of each vegetable for each zone of the state. I was a very helpful chart, and I was wondering if you had anything like this for South Dakota. I would find it very useful. If you don't have one, maybe the students could make one. Here is a link to the website: http://www.ext.vt.edu/pubs/envirohort/426-331/426-331.pdf

ANSWER:
Much of the same information can be found in our vegetable gardening booklet that you can get at your county extension office or at http://agbiopubs.sdstate.edu/articles/EC668.pdf (See the table on page 16, and check out the back cover for frost date maps for SD).

For more information: burrows.rhoda@ces.sdstate.edu

shelter belt
QUESTION:
I have a shelter belt around a family farm in rural Platte SD. It is very old and becoming ineffective. I am looking for advise as to what combination of trees and shrubs would work well in that area for a new shelter belt. Secondly, should I start a new shelter belt outside the old one or try and integrate the two. There are some trees but most are dead or dying. Thanks in advance.

ANSWER:
Platte has a favorable climate for many trees and shrubs. There are numerous species being used in the area, white pines, coffeetrees among others, that cannot be planted further north or west so you have a wide choice of material from which to select. The real issue is the soil and this vary considerably within a county. I suggest you contact your local conservation district office so they can develop a plan that best fits the unique conditions and soil of your site. As to the question about interplanting or starting over, usually starting over is the best option. Attempting to interplant can fail as the new trees are stunted from the competition of the surrounding larger trees.

For more information: john.ball@ces.sdstate.edu

tree roots
QUESTION:
This is about tree roots and a sewer line. I have been told that tree roots looking for moisture can spread for a distance up to a quarter of a mile during the current drought season. Is this correct? If so then a person's sewer line blockages from tree roots could be caused by trees far away from the owner's property. What if anything can be done to avoid the expense of replacing sewer pipes?

ANSWER:
Tree roots typically can extend out from a tree a distance equal to its height. For example, a 40-foot tall tree can have roots out about 40 feet from the trunk. Some trees, such as white poplar, cottonwoods, walnuts and oaks, can have roots extending up to twice their height. Most conifers, pines, spruce and firs, have roots extending out slightly less than a distance equal to their height. Roots extending out one-quarter of a mile (1,320 feet) from the trunk is not possible for the trees that are found in our region of the world, even with drought conditions.

Tree roots do invade sewer lines that already have cracks or opening in them, clay pipes typically have the most problem. The moisture and air provides an ideal environment for tree roots to expand once they enter the pipes and this is when the problem begins. Grinding out the roots in the pipe provides a temporary solution but the roots will grow back into the pipe within a few years. Chemicals added to the water in the line are not very effective and can be harmful to the function of the septic system. The best solution is to replace the pipe.

For more information: john.ball@ces.sdstate.edu

land lease rates
QUESTION:
Mr. Burton Pflueger. I own 640 acres of farm land in Sanborn County. The lease is expiring: what are typical land lease rates presently in the area?

ANSWER:

The 2007 SDSU Farm Real Estate Market Survey report contains information on current agricultural land values and cash rental rates by land use in different regions of South Dakota, with comparisons to values from earlier years. The 2007 SDSU Farm Real Estate Market Survey is the 17th annual survey of agricultural land values and cash rental rates by land use and quality in different regions of South Dakota.  The electronic version of this report is available at: http://agbiopubs.sdstate.edu/articles/C272.pdf

This report contains an overview and may or may not reflect actual land values or cash rental rates unique to specific localities or properties. Responses for non-irrigated land uses are grouped into eight agricultural regions. The six regions in eastern and central South Dakota correspond with USDA Agricultural Statistics Districts. In western South Dakota, farmland values and cash rental rates are reported for the northwest and southwest regions. Land values and cash rental rates are reported only for privately owned land and should not be considered as estimated values for tribal lands or federal lands. Within each region and for each non-irrigated agricultural land use, there is considerable variation in land values.  Readers should use this report as a general reference and rely on local sources for more specific details.

Within the report, data is not reported for specific counties, but rather for a cluster of counties.  A county cluster is a group of counties within the same region that have similar agricultural land use and value characteristics. Land values and cash rental rate information is not reported for individual counties because there are too few reports for most individual counties.  Readers desiring information specific to a single county are encouraged to consult the South Dakota Agricultural Statistics Service (SDASS) report: South Dakota 2007 County Level Land Rents and Values, a report based on a telephone survey of South Dakota farm/ranch producers differing from the SDSU Farm Real Estate Market Survey report based on reports from agricultural lenders, Farm Service Agency officials, rural appraisers, assessors, realtors, professional farm managers, and Extension agricultural educators.

Responding to the inquiry concerning typical land lease rates presently in the area of Sanborn County, the following information is reproduced from the SDSU Farm Real Estate Market Survey report.  Cash rental rates are reported in terms of dollars per acre.

Additional questions or requests for information can be addressed to either Dr. Pflueger or Dr. Janssen at:

SDSU Department of Economics

Box 504; Scobey Hall

Brookings, SD  57007

(605) 688-4141

preemergence herbicides in gardens
QUESTION:
I have a question about preemergence herbicides in gardens. Next year I'm seriously considering using Treflan on my backyard garden spot. The crabgrass and bindweed are just taking over and I can't keep up, even though I've mulched heavily with hay. I understand that Treflan stops the new seed/shoot growth of annuals, but doesn't affect perennials that are already established. My question is, how do you grow a direct-seed crop, such as carrots, cilantro, peas, beans, melons, onions, etc., into a Treflan-treated garden. They are seeds too, so why aren't they killed by the Treflan? David Nusz

ANSWER:
Treflan controls grasses at the time of germination, and targets the growth of the coleoptile, a part of the germinating seedling that broadleaves don’t have. Treflan will inhibit seedling growth of some vegetables also, including the onions and corn (which have coleoptiles). Thus it should be used only on the crops listed on the label (cilantro is not). However, under some conditions I’ve also seen damage on melons and other vegetable crops from Treflan. That’s why I don’t recommend Treflan or other pre-emergent herbicides in a home garden. You might try black plastic mulch (you can leave a center row open for seeding, or punch holes in for the melons.) I wouldn’t use hay, because that tends to have more weed seed than a clean straw mulch.

Treflan will not control bindweed, which is a perennial that comes up from underground stems. For that, the best choice may be selective treatment with glyphosate, combined with pulling as soon as it pops up from the soil, in order to deplete the plant’s energy.

For more information: burrows.rhoda@ces.sdstate.edu

weed
QUESTION:
A landowner in central South Dakota wants help with the prickly pear in his yard. I've done some research on the internet. They give recommendations for using Tordon or Surmount on pasture/range lands. Can you provide any recommendations for using on lawns? ounces/1000sqft or injecting specific plants? Thank you for your assistance.

ANSWER:
There really are no practical herbicide options for controlling prickly pear cactus in yards. Tordon (picloram) is often used in non-crop areas or pasture/range, but the prickly pear may take 3 yrs or even longer to actually die which would likely not be practical for a lawn anyway. I have heard that high rates of 2,4-D or fluroxypyr (Spotlight) may be effective, but I expect that activity may be slow with these herbicides also. Another concern is that prickly pear does not just shrivel up and disappear after it is killed like a common annual weed. Even if an effective herbicide was used, you would still be left with a dead prickly pear in the yard. Therefore, manually digging and removing the plants is still one of the best options. I’m sorry I can not provide an easier solution. We established a study this summer to evaluate the efficacy of various pasture or turf herbicide chemistries, but check back in about 3 yrs for the results.

For more information: Michael.Moechnig@sdstate.edu

crop input cost for South Dakota
QUESTION:
I was wondering if SDSU does any studies on crop input cost for South Dakota. I would like to know what the 2007 input cost were for corn, wheat, beans and oats. Thank you for your help in advance.

ANSWER:
Access the economics web page which includes budgets for some of the crops.

http://econ.sdstate.edu/Extension/otherlinks.htm

We have a budget template which is useful for developing budgets for other crops.

For more information: warmann.gerald@ces.sdstate.edu

flowers/grass
QUESTION:
I would like to plant a small area (5' by 9') of our yard with prairie grasses and sunflowers to hide some utility boxes. My husband is concerned that they are invasive and will spread into the lawn. Is this a valid concern? What species do you recommend?

ANSWER:
There are many different prairie grasses from buffalo grass to big bluestem. Some of them will tend to spread but many of them are more “well behaved” and will pretty much stay where they are planted. If you go to a local garden center or nursery and ask to see their ornamental grasses you should be able to pick some out that you like and that won’t spread. Some of the most popular include some of the new introductions of Little Bluestem, Big Bluestem, Indian Grass, Switchgrass, Prairie Dropseed, Feather Reedgrass and many others. We have a pretty good display of ornamental grasses at McCrory Gardens in Brookings. There you can see the different types and how they grow. There are also other good resources like the research that is being done at the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum by Mary Meyer. She has some information on a web site and a few really good publications. Take a look at one to get some more information at: http://www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/horticulture/DG6422.html

As for the sunflowers, there are native annual and perennial types of Helianthus or sunflowers as well as the ornamental annual types that are widely available. The annual types may reseed themselves and come up again the next year in a slightly different area but often the birds and other animals will get the seed first so not many survive. They are also very easy to pull out as weeds if they come up where they are not wanted. The perennial types can become somewhat invasive but are usually not too bad.

For more information: graper.david@ces.sdstate.edu

Rental data
QUESTION:
I am looking to cash-rent pasture (or shares)in eastern South Dakota for 8 to 10 cow / calf pairs. Any suggestions on the best places to post my request. Also, what is the current average price for rent.

ANSWER:
Here are some rental data for your use. Access this web page and review the land values publication for regional rental rates.

Are you willing to advertise in the classified sections? The papers in Sioux Falls, Watertown, Brookings and regional agriculture publications might give you the best coverage for finding available land. If you wish, I can send you the web sites for the appropriate papers.

Let me know what you think of the publication on land values and rental rates.

Thanks, Jerry Warmann http://agbiopubs.sdstate.edu/process.cfm?Dept=econ

For more information: warmann.gerald@ces.sdstate.edu

Indoor gardening
QUESTION:
I am starting broccoli and cauliflower indoors this year. Will full spectrum flourescent bulbs be sufficient or must I get the grow lights. Do you have any good guidelines on doing this? Thanks. Can't wait till the GardenLine is on again.

ANSWER:

Fluorescent lights are just fine.  If you want, you could get one bulb that's cool white and the other warm white, but even just the regular cool white will suffice (you only need the full-spectrum when you're trying to get something to flower - not usually a consideration for starting transplants).

A good general publication on growing cole crops (broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, etc.) is at http://www.oznet.ksu.edu/library/hort2/MF1108.pdf

Starting 4-6 wks before transplanting is usually about right.  Be careful not to start them too early - if the plants are too big (should be pencil sized stem or less diameter, 3-4 leaves at most) when you set them out, they are more likely to have problems forming nice heads.  For more information about that, also see especially the second page of http://www.okstate.edu/OSU_Ag/agedcm4h/pearl/hort/vegetble/f-6027.pdf

QUESTION:
I am wondering about the feasibility of feeding whole field peas with oats or soybean hulls in a creep feed ration in relation to a commercial creep feed? Performance would obviously be the most important consideration as well as cost and potential sorting of a mixed whole grain ration as opposed to a pelleted feed. Any other thoughts would be appreciated as well. Thanks.

ANSWER:
Field peas are a nice option for use in creep feeds. Researchers have determined that field peas can be fed as the sole ingredient in a creep diet, but that calf performance is best when field peas comprise 33 to 67% of the creep diet. It also appears that coarse rolling of the field peas is beneficial in creep feeds. Most of the research done to date has used wheat middlings as the complimentary ingredient; however, both oats and soybean hulls would work. Separation may be an issue and the severity will depend on the particle size and density. Field peas have been reported to be very palatable and, in some cases, improve intake. In the research projects where coarsely rolled field peas were combined with pelleted wheat middlings, there was no report of sorting.

Bottom line...field peas will work well in creep diets, but careful evaluation of the economics relative to other feeds will be essential to making a wise decision.

For more information: wright.cody@ces.sdstate.edu

Dairy
QUESTION:
What are SD's regulations on raw milk? Can raw goat or cow milk be sold directly to the consumer? Can excess be sold for animal consumption? What website can I go to to get information on what is permissible in direct marketing for a nonprofit farm?

ANSWER:
The South Dakota Department of Agriculture enforces the following state and federal regulations that relate to dairy: SDCL 40-31 and SDCL 39-6, and the 2005 PMO (Pasteurized Milk Ordinance). These documents can be found on our website http://www.state.sd.us/doa/das/hp-dairy.htm To read the SD codified law, click on the SDCL 39-6 or 40-32 and this will take you to the SD Legistlative Research Council site where you will need to enter the codified law number to open the document. If you have questions after reviewing these documents, please feel free to contact me.

Gene Stegeman
South Dakota Department of Agriculture
Laboratory Evaluation Officer

State Dairy Lab
Box 2104 Dairy Micro Bldg. #118 SDSU
Brookings, SD 57007
(605) 688-5491
gene.stegeman@state.sd.us


For more information: gene.stegeman@state.sd.us

QUESTION:
I would like to know what the proper seeding depth of winter wheat?

ANSWER:


For more information: hall.robert@ces.sdstate.edu

Vines
QUESTION:
I live in Blucksberg Mountain Estates area off of Exit 34 near Sturgis and across the interstate from the National Cemetary. I live on the backside of the mountain so my property has lots of mature pine trees. I have a retaining wall that is made out of railroad ties and I would like to hide these railroad ties with ivy's of some sort. I was thinking I could attach some lattice or chicken wire to the railroad ties and plant some ivy's at the base of the wall. I was wondering if you could suggest some plants that grow fast, have a long calendar year life, grow with lots of spreading out, and are good for the type of soil that I will be planting them in. How far apart would I neet to plant each ivy? With my mature trees some of the wall gets quite a bit of sunlight and some of it gets sunlight at certain parts of the day.

Any help you can give me would be greatly appreciated.

ANSWER:
Since you live up in the Hills, where it gets colder, this limits your choices somewhat but you should still be able to hide those railroad ties. Virginia Creeper or Woodbine would be a good plant to try first. It is a rapidly growing vine with fairly large compound leaves. It looks good all summer long and then turns vibrant red in the fall. You might also try some hardy grape vines like ‘Valiant’ or ‘Beta’ that should even give you some fruit to harvest.

For more information: graper.david@ces.sdstate.edu

Weeds
QUESTION:
Last fall we tore down and buried the old cement silo on our place. We disced and then dug around the site after putting up a new pole building. This spring we planted alfalfa and it got off to a good start however because it is an old barn yard there are a multitude of different types of broadleaf weeds that have taken over. after the trace of rain we had last night I went over the area today with a brush hog to keep the weeds from seeding out. My question is... can I now spray this acre or so with anything to start controlling the amount of weeds and give the alfalfa a chance? The alfalfa is in mid bloom and suprisingly it is fairly thick considering the drought we are in, I cut it down to about 10 inches high. Any thoughts you might have on a contol program would be helpful. Thanks for your time

ANSWER:
There are no good herbicide options for controlling weeds as large as those you are dealing with in your alfalfa. In alfalfa, it is best to control weeds before they exceed three inches in height, particularly if no small grain companion crop is used. Raptor (imazamox) may suppress the broadleaf weeds if applied at a rate of 6 oz/A plus MSO (methylated seed oil at 1% of the total spray volume) plus nitrogen (either 28%N at 2.5% of the total spray volume or AMS at a rate of 15-20 lbs/100 gallons spray solution). Raptor is meant to control weeds less than 3 inches tall, so it is likely that you may just get suppression of the weeds at this point. Buctril at 1.5 pt/A is another option for broadleaf weed control, but temperatures above 70 or 80F within three days after application may result in injury to the alfalfa. Buctril is also meant to control small weeds that do not exceed the four-leaf stage.

Otherwise, you may just want to keep trimming the alfalfa which will eventually give it a competitive advantage over the annual broadleaf weeds. If you have other small areas where alfalfa may be planted, you may want to consider planting Roundup Ready alfalfa. The seed is much more expensive than conventional varieties, but this could be a useful tool if planting small areas where weed pressure is high. For conventional varieties, a small grain companion crop will greatly help to suppress the weeds for the first year.

For more information: michael.moechnig@sdstate.edu

Snakes
QUESTION:
I have looked around a little bit and seem to find conflicting information on repelling snakes. Some things say that nothing works (please, please don't tell me this!!) and some say that certain repellants such as snake-a-way are options. Do you know if anything works, just to keep garter/water snakes out of my yard so I don't have a heart attack when I am mowing? (Thanks!!!)

ANSWER:
Dealing with garter snakes in the yard is not an easy problem to solve. While there are some products on the market that are supposedly snake repellants, most are only minimally effective. The biggest hurdle to overcome is to reduce the reasons for snakes to be in the yard in the first place. Try getting rid of areas where they can take cover like old wood piles, rock piles, tree stumps, and other debris. Next try keeping the area mowed to reduce cover as well. Finally, remove sources of food for the snakes’ prey. They are there because of small animals, frogs etc that offer an easy meal. Clean up under bird feeders, spilled grain around the farm etc. Lastly remember that even though you might not like the sight of a snake, they are generally beneficial creatures and it is good to have a few around the yard.

For more information: graper.david@ces.sdstate.edu

Grazing Cattle
QUESTION:
I would like to know if there is any danger in turning cattle into a field of cow chow (Waconia Orange, a sweet sorghum planted at a rate of about 22-25lb/acre). It was planted in June. Without much rain it grew to 5-6 feet tall. Or I could cut and bale it or leave it in the row to cure. What is your advice?

ANSWER:
Before you turn in your cattle to graze on Waconia Orange there are two things to consider.

One is the nitrate level in the plant material. Crops grown under stress conditions such as drought or frost damage or on soils that have received high applications of manure or nitrogen fertilizer are susceptible to high nitrate-nitrogen accumulation. Nitrate itself is not toxic to animals, but at elevated levels, it can cause nitrite poisoning. Nitrate toxicity is most likely to occur when livestock are pastured or fed green-chop, followed by hay. Silage is the least hazardous because the process of ensiling will lower nitrate concentration by 10 to 60 percent.

Before you graze, have a sample tested for nitrate-nitrogen. A nitrate-nitrogen value of less than 350 parts per million is generally safe for all conditions and livestock.

The second concern is possible prussic acid poisoning. Sorghums are notorious for producing prussic acid when stressed by drought, frost, or other factors. The toxifying action of prussic acid is almost immediate, and death can occur within 15 to 20 minutes. Field curing liberates 50-70 percent of prussic acid. Conditioning helps to increase liberation of prussic acid, as it causes an enzymatic breakdown of dhurrin, a precursor of prussic acid, and prussic acid evaporates during drying.

For more information: jeranyama.peter@ces.sdstate.edu

Strawberries
QUESTION:
I planted strawberries this year next to tomatoes. The tomatoes have blight and I have noticed some yellow leaves on the strawberries. Do I pull up the strawberries and start over next year? Or will they come up next year without disease?

ANSWER:
Although tomatoes and strawberries can “catch” the same fungus (Verticillium) root rot), what you describe (at least on the tomato) sounds more like a leaf disease, and I don't know of any leaf diseases that would spread between the two species. I certainly wouldn't recommend pulling up the strawberries until we know what the problem might be. Send me a sample of the strawberry leaves (and probably the tomatoes, too). If the leaves have distinct spots, that's enough to send. However, if the plant seems to be generally yellow, it'd be a good idea to send the whole plant, because then we may be dealing with a root or crown rot. Contact your county Extension office if you need help mailing.

For more information: burrows.rhoda@ces.sdstate.edu

Cash Rent
QUESTION:
I would like the average cash rents paid for farm property for Davison, Douglas, Hanson, and Hutchinson counties.

ANSWER:
The answer can be found in our publication Agricultural Land Market Trends 1991–2004. The publication can be found at our web site: http://agbiopubs.sdstate.edu/articles/C269.pdf

For more information: pflueger.burton@ces.sdstate.edu

Divorce and the Farm
QUESTION:
Where can I go to find laws pretaining to dividing farm land and property in a divorce? How can we set things up for our grown children to continue farming?

ANSWER:
These are questions to be discussed with an attorney. South Dakota is not a community property state; instead it is an "equitable distribution" state. All of the spouse's property is equitably divided by the court. Marital fault is not to be considered unless it is relevant to the acquisition of property during the marriage. The only factor specified in the statute is a consideration of the equity and circumstances of the spouses. South Dakota courts have interpreted this to include the following factors for consideration:
1) the contribution of each spouse to the acquisition of the marital property, including the contribution of each spouse as homemaker;
2) the value of each spouse's property;
3) the length of the marriage;
4) the age and health of the spouses;
5) the present and potential earning capability of each spouse;
6) the value of the property; and
7) the income-producing capacity of the spouse's assets.

[South Dakota Codified Laws at http://legis.state.sd.us/statutes/index.cfm; Title 25, Chapters 25-4-44 and 25-4-45.1 and South Dakota Case Law].

Likely you will want to set up a revokable living trust that will insure that your grown children will be able to continue farming. Trusts are very flexible instruments that can reach beyond your generation for such assurances. They are not inexpensive to draw up but more than likely will be worth it for your peace of mind and the money saved in the tranfer of your estate.

Again, I suggest that you seek an attorney that is qualified, experienced, one in which you can place your trust. My recommendation is that you ask others you trust for recommendations and that you personally interview more than one attorney before deciding. View this fact sheet on attorney selection and interview procedures.

For more information: gorham.liz@ces.sdstate.edu

Alfalfa
QUESTION:
Please tell me when is a good time to harvest alfalfa hay for haylage. I am hearing 1st cutting is o.k.for RFV of about 175, but 2nd and 3rd are not good for RFV due to heat of July. More stem growth and less leaves equals lower RFV.

ANSWER:
Alfalfa forage quality is greatest in early vegetative stages when the leaf weight is greater than stem weight; however, by first flower, and sometime earlier, stem proportion exceeds that of leaves. To get a RFV of at least 153 regarded as premium hay or haylage you must harvest all hay at the pre-bud stage of development and this is also true for 2nd or 3rd cuttings. At any rate you have to weigh the need for high forage quality versus low tonnage. I emphasize that the stage of development is the most critical determinant of forage quality. I refer you to Extension Extra 8149: Understanding Relative Feed Value and Relative Forage Quality for more information. This can be obtained by going to SDSU Extension Website, http://sdces.sdstate.edu. Click on "Publications" near the top of the screen, then click the "Search" key at the right of the screen. Type "ExEx8149" into the "Item number" file field.

For more information: hall.robert@ces.sdstate.edu

Corn
QUESTION:
How much shrink occurs when drying a bushel of corn? For example: 18% corn dried to 12%. Is the formula lineal?: i.e. for each percent of moisture removed, is the factor the same?

ANSWER:
I would suggest that you go to the following internet sites. These extension publications will help walk your way through the shrink calculations:

http://www.extension.iastate.edu/Publications/NCH61.pdf
http://www.extension.umn.edu/specializations/cropsystems/M1080-FS.pdf

The publications are well written and you should few problems if any in understanding how shrink is calculated. I suggest you view these publications in the order they are presented above. In the second publication you will have to scroll down nearly to the end for the discussion of shrink. If you should have any more problems give me a call 605.688.4760.

For more information: hall.robert@ces.sdstate.edu

Grass
QUESTION:
It's already mid-October; what is your recommendation for repairing our badly-damaged, native soil football field?

ANSWER:
It would be best to wait until early to mid-spring rather than dormant seed this fall. Lower the height of the first spring mowing to between 0.5 and 1 inch and bag or remove the clippings and dead plant material from the previous year. Core aerify the field intensively, with tines spaced 2-inches on center or by making multiple passes. Leave the cores on the surface to dry. Broadcast a blend of 3 to 4 Kentucky bluegrass cultivars at the rate of 3 to 5 lbs. pure live seed/1000 ft2. Additionally, broadcast a starter fertilizer at the rate of 0.5 lbs. phosphorus/1000 ft2. Drag the field, breaking up cores. Keep seedbed continually moist to enhance seed germination. Kentucky bluegrass seed may take 2 to 4 weeks to germinate. Keep field mowed short until germination. Apply a complete fertilizer four weeks after germination. Mowing equipment using reel mowers will provide higher quality turf compared to rotary mowers. Core aerify a minimum of two times per year using Labor Day and Memorial Day as target dates. Consider blending 3 or 4 of the following Kentucky bluegrass cultivars for overseeding your football field:

Superior wear tolerance and shear strength:
'Rugby II'
'Award'
'Limousine'

Additional quality Kentucky bluegrasses for color, density, and recuperative ability:
'Absolute'
'Apollo'
'Blacksburg'
'Brilliant'
'Impact'
'Liberator'
'Midnight'
'North Star'
'NuGlade'
'Odyssey'
'Showcase'
'Total Eclipse'


For more information: schleicher.leo@ces.sdstate.edu

Grass
QUESTION:
Our front lawn has borne the brunt of a lot of traffic secondary to remodelling, shingling, etc. I would like to reseed this fall. When is the latest I could seed this fall? Thanks

ANSWER:
Typically, fall seeding of cool-season turfgrasses, such as Kentucky bluegrass, fineleaf fescues, and perennial ryegrass, should be done between mid-August and early to mid-September, depending on location. Kentucky bluegrass may take 3 weeks to germinate. Cold temperatures and frost heaving are likely to injure or kill young seedlings if seeding is performed too late in the year.

For more information: schleicher.leo@ces.sdstate.edu

Lawn
QUESTION:
We have a lot of mushrooms coming up in our yard. What can we do to kill or stop them?

ANSWER:
Basically, nothing. Even if you sterilized the soil (not a good idea in any case - you need those good micro-organisms), they would probably come back in a year or two.

Look at it this way - they're a sign that nature is busy doing exactly what it should be doing: breaking down dead organic matter and recycling the nutrients to the living plants. What you see are the above-ground fruiting structures of the vast underground body of the fungus that works it way through the soil in microscopic-sized threadlike hyphae. You can remove the mushrooms as you see them - it really won't make any difference to the fungus - it'd be sort of like taking the flowers off an apple tree - it won't decrease the plant's vigor, nor that of the fungus'.

If it is a fairy ring fungus (those that form large circles moving ever outward in the lawn), then see http://www.coopext.colostate.edu/TRA/PLANTS/index.html#http://www.colostate.edu/Depts/CoopExt/TRA/PLANTS/fairing.html for more information.

For more information: burrows.rhoda@ces.sdstate.edu

Beef
QUESTION:
I have 61 yearling heifers that I would like to sychronize using MGA. I do not plan on giving the shot to them. I have gotten several different opinions on the timing of turning out the bulls after I quit feeding the MGA. Could you explain the timing of the infertile heat to me and when I should turn my bulls out? Also, I have 3 bulls that I plan on using. Do I need to start breeding in my lots so that I can manage my bulls or would they be able to breed in the pasture with no management? How many days do I need to leave my bulls out to allow all heifers to cycle once? Thank you, John Paul

ANSWER:
To answer your questions the infertile heat that occurs after feeding MGA to cows for 14 day is the heat immediately following MGA withdrawal. This heat will occur within a 10 day period. Therefore it is best to wait approximately 10 to 12 days after you stop feeding MGA before you turn the bulls out. The 3 bulls you have will be sufficient to breed the 61 heifers, and will be able to breed them on pasture without any extra management. It is important that you have a Breeding Soundness Examination performed on these bulls before the start of the breeding season to make sure that their semen quality is satisfactory. The normal estrus cycle in a cow averages 21 days. To give all the heifers 1 chance at getting bred you will need to leave the bull out for at around 30 days. If you are looking to give the heifers a second chance to get bred you would need to extend this by 30 days (approximately a 60 day breeding season). South Dakota State University has an Extension Facts Sheet that will further explain the estrous cycle (FS921A located at http://agbiopubs.sdstate.edu/articles/FS921A.pdf ). If you have any other questions feel free to email me.

For more information: perry.george@ces.sdstate.edu

Horses
QUESTION:
Should we continue to vaccinate for West Nile Virus?

ANSWER:
Absolutely, and do so with assuredness of the safety of the vaccine, including bred mares given that it is administered as recommended by your veterinarian. Put it on your annual booster list.

For more information: koyla.kruse@sdstate.edu

Horses
QUESTION:
Is it safe to feed the corn – milling co-products to horses?

ANSWER:
There are not many sources to indicate a good answer to this, but undoubtedly, research is being done in this area. The initial point of possible concern is mycotoxins, which can survive the corn milling process. Certainly, which product to feed will depend upon availability and the storage space you have available. The few sources I have seen recommend that these feeds not be more than 10-15% of the diet, and I, personally, would not recommend it for very young, growing horses or broodmares until more is known. Since most mature, idol or light working horses don’t need grain in their diet, this limits your target group of horses to which it can be fed. I do, however, know of several individuals who are feeding some of these products with no ill effects. According to these individuals, the horses don’t like it immediately, but after just a few days, they are eating it as well as other grain sources.

For more information: koyla.kruse@sdstate.edu

CHARACTER COUNTS!sm
QUESTION:
How is CHARACTER COUNTS!sm funded?

ANSWER:
The state project leader's position is funded through the SDSU Cooperative Extension Service, with the rest of the program funding coming through donations and grants made to the SD 4-H Foundation. Extension educators and county offices also give in-kind support to the project.

For more information: kari.fruechte@sdstate.edu

CHARACTER COUNTS!sm
QUESTION:
Is CHARACTER COUNTS!sm a curriculum?

ANSWER:
No. CHARACTER COUNTS!sm is a framework that uses the common language of the Six Pillars of Character - trustworthiness, respect, responsibility, fairness, caring and citizenship - to help families, schools, businesses, and communities work together to build character in youth and adults. It is ideally incorporated into existing curriculum and daily living. In teaching CC! , we do pull lessons and activities from a variety of educational curriculum and resources.

For more information: kari.fruechte@sdstate.edu

Crops
QUESTION:
I have heard a lot of information regarding intensive wheat management. Would this be a year to try it?

ANSWER:
Intensive wheat management may mean different things to different people. There has been a major effort in South Dakota to use high seeding rates, additional fertility, and fungicide treatments prior to harvest to increase wheat yields. In cool regions of the world like the United Kingdom the use of high seeding rates, high fertility, and one or more fungicide treatments may be justified. In South Dakota wheat production is greatly affected by temperature and soil moisture available to the crop. Recent research has indicated a recommended 1X seeding rates of 28 pure-lives-seed (PLS) per square foot (1.2 millions PLS per acre) and a slightly higher 1.5X rate of 42 PLS (1.8 million PLS per acre) both yielded better than a higher yet 2X rate of 56 PLS (2.4 million PLS per acre). It is suggested growers use a 28 to 42 PLS seeding rate and a common soil fertility yield goal for your area. Since soil moisture has been quite limited the past two years, this may not be the year to use elevated seeding rates and higher than average yield goals. The use of fungicides is a different matter. Some growers, especially seed growers, may opt to treat their wheat crop with fungicides from the beginning. Others may delay that decision later in hopes they will get some indication later on that will help them decide to treat or not.

For more information: robert.hall@sdstate.edu

Crops
QUESTION:
It’s been dry for two years and we haven’t gotten much moisture this winter. Should I plan on cutting back on my inputs like seeding rate, fertility, and chemical pest control?

ANSWER:
It is suggested you pick a reasonable yield goal for your fertility program and use seeding rates you normally use. The management of fertility will be much easier if you currently utilize a soil fertility-soil testing program. Any reduction in soil fertility and seeding rates in order to economize your inputs will likely guarantee a reduction in crop yield and quality. Use of recommended seeding rates and yield goals for your area will enhance your ability to obtain acceptable yield should we get additional moisture from now until the crop is harvested. In most cases, if moisture becomes limiting, the soil fertility not used will likely be available for the following growing season and will not be lost. As far as pest control is concerned, early season control of pest is necessary. Early season disease or insect problems will put potential yield in jeopardy. Likewise, early season weed problems will utilize soil moisture that is needed by the growing crop. In some cases, late season pest outbreaks, may allow a grower to delay the decision to apply control or not to apply control later when it can be determined if it is cost-effective to treat the crop. The use of some type of reduced tillage should be a major production consideration if seasonal and carry-over subsoil moisture is a major concern for your cropping region.

For more information: robert.hall@sdstate.edu

Swine
QUESTION:
What products can I use to decrease the odor from my operation?

ANSWER:
There are many commercially available products that claim to reduce odor from swine operations. They work in a variety of ways and have a wide range of effectiveness. There is no one product that will work in all operations. Composition of the manure in the pit/lagoon, temperature, pH, current bacteria population, etc can effect how most products work. The best advice is first to visit with other pork producers and find what works for them. If it works, great. If not, keep looking at other products. Ask the sales staff for any controlled research on their products. 3 anecdotes do not make a fact! Another way to approach this issue is to decrease the amount of raw ingredients that generate odor. Simple things like using synthetic amino acids and lowering dietary protein level will reduce ammonia and odor. Phase feeding, genotypical feeding, & split-sex feeding will all reduce nitrogen excretion and odor production. Basically, most thins that improve feed efficiency will decrease odor production. A system that has been extremely successful in controlling odor from swine barns is a biofilter. It is simply a 14” deep mixture of compost and wood chips and the odor-rich exhaust air from swine barns is run through it. The microbes in the biofilter remove approximately 95% of the odor coming from swine barns. Biofilters are inexpensive and very easy to construct. For more information on Biofilters, contact the Depts of Animal & Range Science and Ag and Biosystems Engineering.

For more information: robert.thaler@sdstate.edu

Swine
QUESTION:
How much DDGS (Distillers Dried Grains with Solubles) can I feed to pigs?

ANSWER:
DDGS is an excellent feedstuff for pigs, and depending on cost, will work well in swine diets. Pigs over 50 lbs can be fed diets containing up to 20% DDGS without affecting performance or carcass characteristics. Gestating sow diets can contain up to 50% DDGS, but lactation diets should only contain 10% DDGS. It is critical to balance diets with DDGS on an available lysine basis, and not on a protein or total lysine basis. When feeding gestating sows, it’s a good idea to start at 10% DDGS and gradually work your way up to 50% DDGS so feed intake won’t be reduced. For more information, go to the following website: http://ars.sdstate.edu/SwineExt/ddgs.htm

For more information: robert.thaler@sdstate.edu

Sheep
QUESTION:
How many lambs would be expected from an ewe that gives birth?

ANSWER:
1-3 (even more)

For more information: jeffery.held@sdstate.edu